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Fields, Jill. "The Production of Glamour: A Social History of Intimate Apparel, 1909-1952," Department of History, University of Southern California, December 1997.
Glamour is a concrete commodity and a less tangible, but no less real, cultural icon. The history of intimate apparel reveals how glamour mediates tensions generated by this division between production and consumption. Represented by the glamorous fashion industry and the unglamorous garment industry, this fissure upholds hierarchical social relations within both spheres. Beginning with the decline of the rigid nineteenth-century corset, a key factor in the transition to twentieth-century fashion, and continuing until the revival of fashionable corsetry after World War II, initial chapters explore the history of drawers, corsets, girdles, and brassieres. Subsequent chapters examine intimate apparel advertising and mass production.
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