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Lee-Whitman, Leanna. "Silks and Simplicity: A Study of Quaker Dress as Depicted in Portraits, 1718-1855," University of Pennsylvania, May 1987. Advisor: Don Yoder (2, 13, 16)
Studies of Quaker costumes have always been hampered by a general lack of visual evidence and fragmentary written documentation. Accepted forms of American Quaker formal dress in the Colonial (1718-1775), the Early Republic (1776-1826), and the nineteenth-century period after the Orthodox-Hicksite Split (1827-1855) were taken from depictions of sixty portraits of Quakers. Comparisons to contemporary non-Quaker costumes, non-Quaker portraits, and evaluation of contemporary formal edicts and personal writings, as well as Philadelphia Monthly Meeting records formed a composite picture of Quaker attitudes toward dress as an expression of the simplicity testimony. Pictorial and written evidence combined to form a pattern which showed that although American Quakers had sectarian qualities, they remained still “of this world” even during their most withdrawn periods.
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